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BAKSEI CHAMKRONG
Located southwest of the south gate of Angkor Thom, Baksei Chamkrong
Is one of the few brick edifices in the immediate vicinity of Angkor. A well-
Proportioned though petite temple, it was once decorated with a covering
of lime mortar. Likes virtually all of the structures of Angkor, it opens to the
east. In the early 10th century, Harshavarman I erected five statues in this
temple: two of Shiva, one of Vishnu and two of Devi.
Located southwest of the south gate of Angkor Thom, Baksei Chamkrong
Is one of the few brick edifices in the immediate vicinity of Angkor. A well-
Proportioned though petite temple, it was once decorated with a covering
of lime mortar. Likes virtually all of the structures of Angkor, it opens to the
east. In the early 10th century, Harshavarman I erected five statues in this
temple: two of Shiva, one of Vishnu and two of Devi.
PHNOM BAKHENG
Located around 400m south of Angkor Thom, the main attraction at Phnom
Bakheng is the photo op of a sunset view of Angkor Wat. Unfortunately,
The whole affair has turned into something of a circus, with crowds of
Tourists ascending the slopes of the hill and jockeying for space once on
Top. Coming down can be even worse as there is nothing at in the way
of lighting. Still, the sunset over the Western Baray is very impressive
from the hill. To get a decent picture of Angkor Wat in the warm glow of
the late afternoon sun you will need at least a 300mm lens, as the temple
is 1.3km away.
Phnom Bakheng also lays claim to being home to the first of the temple-
Mountains built in the vicinity of Angkor. Yasovarman I (r 889-910) chose
Phnom Bakheng over the Roluos area, where the earlier capital (and temple-
Mountains) had been located.
The temple-mountain has five tiers, with seven levels (including the base
and the summit). At the base are - or were – 44 towers. Each of the five tiers
had 12 towers. The summit of the temple has four towers at the cardinal
points of the compass as well as a central sanctuary. All of these numbers are
of symbolic significance. The seven levels, for example, represent the seven
Hindu heavens, while the total number of towers, excluding the central
Sanctuary, is 108, a particularly auspicious number and that correlates
to the lunar calendar.
It is now possible to arrange an elephants ride up the hill (one way US$25;
with tour groups. It is advisable to book in advance, as the rides are
very popular with tour groups.
THE LONG STRIDER
One of Vishnu’s best-loved incarnations was when he appeared as the dwarf Vamana, and pro-ceeded to reclaim the world from the evil demon-king bali. The dwarf politely asked the demon-king for a comfortable patch of ground upon which to meditate, saying that the patch need only
be big enough so that he could easily walk across it in three paces. The demon agreed, only to
see the dwarf swell into a mighty giant who strode across the universe in three enormous steps,
From this legend, depicted at Prasat Kravan , Vishhnu is sometimes known as the ‘long strider
PRASAT KRAVAN
Prasat Kravan is famous for its interior brick carvings concealed within its
towers. The five brick towers of Prasat Kravan, which are arranged in a north-
south line and oriented to the east, were built for Hindu worship in AD 921. The
structure is unusual in that it was not constructed by royalty; this accounts for
its slightly distant location, away from the centre of the capital Prasat Kravan
is just south of the road between Angkor wat and Banteay Kdei.
Prasat Kravan was partially restored in 1968, returning the brick carvings
to their former glory. The images of Vishnu in the largest central tower
show the eight-armed deity on the back wall;taking the three gigantic steps
with which he reclaimed the world on the left wall and riding
a garuda on the right wall. The northernmost tower displays bas-reliefs of
Vishnu’s consort, Lakshmi.
BANTEAY KDEI & SRA SRANG
Banteay Kdei, a massive Buddhist monastery from the latter part of the
12th century, is surrounded by four concentric walls. The outer wall meas-
ures 500m by 700m. Each of its four entrances is decorated with garudas,
which hold aloft one of Jayavarman VII’s favourite themes: the four faces of
Avalokiteshvara. The inside of the central tower was never finished and much
of the temple is in a ruinous state due to hasty construction. It is considerably
less busy than nearby Ta Prohm and this alone can justify a visit.
East of Banteay Kdei is an earlier basin, Sra Srang (Pool of Ablutions),
measuring 800m by 400m, reserved for the king and his wives. A tiny island in
the middle once bore a wooden temple, of which only the stone base remains.
This is a beautiful body of water from which to take in a quiet sunrise.
Located around 400m south of Angkor Thom, the main attraction at Phnom
Bakheng is the photo op of a sunset view of Angkor Wat. Unfortunately,
The whole affair has turned into something of a circus, with crowds of
Tourists ascending the slopes of the hill and jockeying for space once on
Top. Coming down can be even worse as there is nothing at in the way
of lighting. Still, the sunset over the Western Baray is very impressive
from the hill. To get a decent picture of Angkor Wat in the warm glow of
the late afternoon sun you will need at least a 300mm lens, as the temple
is 1.3km away.
Phnom Bakheng also lays claim to being home to the first of the temple-
Mountains built in the vicinity of Angkor. Yasovarman I (r 889-910) chose
Phnom Bakheng over the Roluos area, where the earlier capital (and temple-
Mountains) had been located.
The temple-mountain has five tiers, with seven levels (including the base
and the summit). At the base are - or were – 44 towers. Each of the five tiers
had 12 towers. The summit of the temple has four towers at the cardinal
points of the compass as well as a central sanctuary. All of these numbers are
of symbolic significance. The seven levels, for example, represent the seven
Hindu heavens, while the total number of towers, excluding the central
Sanctuary, is 108, a particularly auspicious number and that correlates
to the lunar calendar.
It is now possible to arrange an elephants ride up the hill (one way US$25;
with tour groups. It is advisable to book in advance, as the rides are
very popular with tour groups.
THE LONG STRIDER
One of Vishnu’s best-loved incarnations was when he appeared as the dwarf Vamana, and pro-ceeded to reclaim the world from the evil demon-king bali. The dwarf politely asked the demon-king for a comfortable patch of ground upon which to meditate, saying that the patch need only
be big enough so that he could easily walk across it in three paces. The demon agreed, only to
see the dwarf swell into a mighty giant who strode across the universe in three enormous steps,
From this legend, depicted at Prasat Kravan , Vishhnu is sometimes known as the ‘long strider
PRASAT KRAVAN
Prasat Kravan is famous for its interior brick carvings concealed within its
towers. The five brick towers of Prasat Kravan, which are arranged in a north-
south line and oriented to the east, were built for Hindu worship in AD 921. The
structure is unusual in that it was not constructed by royalty; this accounts for
its slightly distant location, away from the centre of the capital Prasat Kravan
is just south of the road between Angkor wat and Banteay Kdei.
Prasat Kravan was partially restored in 1968, returning the brick carvings
to their former glory. The images of Vishnu in the largest central tower
show the eight-armed deity on the back wall;taking the three gigantic steps
with which he reclaimed the world on the left wall and riding
a garuda on the right wall. The northernmost tower displays bas-reliefs of
Vishnu’s consort, Lakshmi.
BANTEAY KDEI & SRA SRANG
Banteay Kdei, a massive Buddhist monastery from the latter part of the
12th century, is surrounded by four concentric walls. The outer wall meas-
ures 500m by 700m. Each of its four entrances is decorated with garudas,
which hold aloft one of Jayavarman VII’s favourite themes: the four faces of
Avalokiteshvara. The inside of the central tower was never finished and much
of the temple is in a ruinous state due to hasty construction. It is considerably
less busy than nearby Ta Prohm and this alone can justify a visit.
East of Banteay Kdei is an earlier basin, Sra Srang (Pool of Ablutions),
measuring 800m by 400m, reserved for the king and his wives. A tiny island in
the middle once bore a wooden temple, of which only the stone base remains.
This is a beautiful body of water from which to take in a quiet sunrise.
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TA KEO
Ta Keo is a stark, undecorated temple that undoubtedly would have been one
of the finest of Angkor’s structures, had it been finished. Built by Jayavarman
V (r 968-1001), it was dedicated to Shiva and was the first Angkorian monu-
ment built entirely of sandstone. The summit of the central tower, which
is surrounded by four lower towers, is almost 50m high. This quincuncial
arrangement (with four towers at the corners of a square and a fifth tower
in the centre) is typical of many Angkorian temple-mountains.
No-one is certain why work was never completed, but a likely cause may
have been the death of Jayavarman V.
TA NEI
Ta Nei, 800m north of Ta Keo, was built by Jayavarman VII (r 1181-1219).
There is something of the spirit of Ta Prohm here, albeit on a lesser scale, with
moss and tentacle-like roots covering outer areas of this small temple. The
number of visitors are also on a lesser scale, making it very atmospheric. It now
houses the Apsara Authority’s training unit and can be accessed by walking
across the French-built dam. To get to the dam, take the long track on the left
just after the Victory Gate of Angkor Thom when coming from Siem Reap.
SPEAN THMOR
Spean Thomr (Stone Bridge), of which an arch and several piers remain, is 200m
east of Thommanon. Jayavarman VII, the last great builder of Angkor, con-
structed many roads with these immense stone bridges spanning watercourses.
This is the only large bridge remaining in the immediate vicinity of Angkor.
The bridge vividly highlights how the water level has changed course over the
subsequent centuries and may offer another clue to the collapse of Angkor’s
extensive irrigation system. Just north of Spean Thmor is a large water wheel.
There are more-spectacular examples of these ancient bridges elsewhere
In Siem Reap Province, such as Spean Praptos, with 19 arches, in Kompong
Kdei on NH6 from Phnom Penh; and Spean Ta Ong, a 77m bridge with a
beautiful naga, forgotten in the forest about 25km east of Beng Mealea.
Ta Keo is a stark, undecorated temple that undoubtedly would have been one
of the finest of Angkor’s structures, had it been finished. Built by Jayavarman
V (r 968-1001), it was dedicated to Shiva and was the first Angkorian monu-
ment built entirely of sandstone. The summit of the central tower, which
is surrounded by four lower towers, is almost 50m high. This quincuncial
arrangement (with four towers at the corners of a square and a fifth tower
in the centre) is typical of many Angkorian temple-mountains.
No-one is certain why work was never completed, but a likely cause may
have been the death of Jayavarman V.
TA NEI
Ta Nei, 800m north of Ta Keo, was built by Jayavarman VII (r 1181-1219).
There is something of the spirit of Ta Prohm here, albeit on a lesser scale, with
moss and tentacle-like roots covering outer areas of this small temple. The
number of visitors are also on a lesser scale, making it very atmospheric. It now
houses the Apsara Authority’s training unit and can be accessed by walking
across the French-built dam. To get to the dam, take the long track on the left
just after the Victory Gate of Angkor Thom when coming from Siem Reap.
SPEAN THMOR
Spean Thomr (Stone Bridge), of which an arch and several piers remain, is 200m
east of Thommanon. Jayavarman VII, the last great builder of Angkor, con-
structed many roads with these immense stone bridges spanning watercourses.
This is the only large bridge remaining in the immediate vicinity of Angkor.
The bridge vividly highlights how the water level has changed course over the
subsequent centuries and may offer another clue to the collapse of Angkor’s
extensive irrigation system. Just north of Spean Thmor is a large water wheel.
There are more-spectacular examples of these ancient bridges elsewhere
In Siem Reap Province, such as Spean Praptos, with 19 arches, in Kompong
Kdei on NH6 from Phnom Penh; and Spean Ta Ong, a 77m bridge with a
beautiful naga, forgotten in the forest about 25km east of Beng Mealea.
CHAU SAY TEVODA
Just east of Angkor Thom’s east gate is Chau Say Tevoda. It was probably built
during the second quarter of the 12th century, under the reign of Suryavarman
II, and dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu. It is under renovation by the Chinese
to bring it up to the condition of its twin temple, Thommanon.
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